Turtuk: The Balti Village That Was Pakistan Until 1971 (1500-Word Ultimate Guide)

Open a map of Ladakh. Go all the way northwest until your finger almost touches Pakistan. That tiny dot right on the Line of Control is Turtuk: the last Indian village before the border, a green oasis of apricot orchards and wooden Balti houses surrounded by the barren peaks of the Karakoram. Until the 1971 war, Turtuk was part of Baltistan (Pakistan). One morning the Indian Army arrived, and the villagers woke up as Indian citizens. Overnight, families were divided by a line on a map. Today Turtuk is the only place in India where you can meet the Balti people, taste their unique food, and literally look across the fence at the village where your host’s cousins still live.

Why Turtuk Feels Like Stepping Into a Different Country

Because it is. The language is Balti (closer to Tibetan), the faces are Central Asian, the wooden houses have carved balconies straight out of Skardu, and the mosques have Persian-style minarets. Women wear colourful topi caps with flowers, men greet with “Assalamu alaikum” and a warm smile, and every home offers you sweet apricot juice the moment you sit down. This is India, but it feels like a beautiful dream where India, Pakistan and Central Asia quietly merged.

How to Reach Turtuk

Distance from Leh: 205 km (7–9 hours)
Route: Leh → Khardung La → Diskit (Nubra) → Hundar → Turtuk

The road is now fully black-topped and smooth till the last kilometre. Shared taxis from Leh to Hundar (₹600–800), then local taxi to Turtuk (₹1500–2000 full car return). Private taxi 2-day Nubra + Turtuk trip: ₹18,000–25,000.

Permit: Free Inner Line Permit required (online in 5 minutes at lahdc-leh.nic.in).

The Unmissable Magic of Turtuk

1. The Border Viewpoint

Climb the small hill behind the village school. On one side: Turtuk. On the other side, just 2–3 km away: Pakistani villages. You can literally see people going about their day across the fence.

2. Balti Heritage Walk

Stroll through narrow lanes of 400-year-old wooden houses with intricately carved doors and balconies. Many still have Persian inscriptions.

3. Turtuk Waterfalls

Two stunning cascades – one right inside the village, another 30-minute walk upstream.

4. Royal Palace of Yabgo Dynasty

The former kings of Baltistan still live here in a beautiful wooden palace-turned-museum. Entry ₹50, and the royal family often serves you tea themselves.

5. Apricot Orchards & Polo Ground

In summer the entire valley turns pink-white with blossoms. The polo ground is still used for matches – pure joy to watch.

6. Thang – The Last Indian Hamlet

8 km beyond Turtuk (army escort required) – the absolute last village before the border. Surreal and humbling.

Best Seasons in Turtuk

Where to Stay – Authentic & Warm

• Turtuk Holiday Resort – best views, clean rooms, great food
• Balti Heritage House – live with a Balti family in a 200-year-old home
• Royal Palace Homestay – yes, you can actually stay with the former royal family
• Many new homestays – ₹2500–6000 with all meals

Food That Will Ruin You for Everything Else

• Buckwheat pancakes with homemade apricot-walnut butter
• Balti-style chicken curry with hand-rolled noodles
• Fresh apricot juice (sweet, cold, addictive)
• Kahwa brewed with saffron and cardamom
• Kisir – traditional Balti dessert made from dried apricots

The Perfect Turtuk Itinerary

Why Turtuk Is India’s Most Special Border Village

Because it is the only place where you can sit on an Indian rooftop, drink apricot juice, and wave to Pakistan just 2 km away – while feeling nothing but warmth and humanity. Because the Balti people will invite you into their homes, show you photos of relatives across the border, and still say “we are one family, just divided by a line.”

Turtuk doesn’t just give you a holiday. It gives you perspective.

Juley from the village that belongs to both sides of the heart!